Gunung Bromo

You say it's your birthday
It's my birthday too, yeah
They say it's your birthday
We're gonna have a good time
I'm glad it's your birthday
Happy birthday to you.

                                   -The Beatles

We left Jogjakarta on the 15th January, destination Gunung Bromo on the island of Java to witness one of the most spectacular natural sites on earth...sunrise over the highly active volcano; Gunung Bromo. A lunaresque landscape of epic proportions and sureal beauty, it is said to be one of Indonesia's most breathtaking sights. Mount Bromo is just one of three ancient peaks to emerge from a vast caldera, the Tengger Massif which stretches 10km across, its steep walls plunging down to a flat sea of lava and sand. Bromo sits closely by Java's largest mountain, the fume-belching Gunung Semeru, which stands a mammoth 3676m. This smoky cone oversees Bromo's supernatural beauty and the entire vocanic wonderland forms the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park.

We set off early from Jogyakarta; it takes over 12 hours to drive east to our destination and so I was prepared with my ipod fully charged and my superb book...'Once an Eagle'. The journey was fine, we arrived at a small village around 8pm, it was very dark by now as we were out in the sticks, in the shadow of the giant mountain range. We booked our Jeep for the morning, got our accommodation sorted and then got into a more suitable vehicle and drove up into the mountains to our accommodation. It's a strange feeling when you are driving in the pitch dark, unaware of your surroundings, your sense of hearing more in tune trying to make sense of the world around you, listening intently...especially to the lower gears roaring and groaning, determined to negotiate each steep incline.  It was a bumpy ride, an English guy next to me was trying to eat some noodles, but unfortunately dropped them all over his bag...pity the smelt lovely. After about 40 minutes the jeep came to a halt. I noticed the condensation on the windows, the air from the peoples mouths...it was cold up here. I jumped out of the 4x4, a little short of breath and the cold hit me straight away. We were over 2000 meters high and the clouds hung over us like a giant piece of cotton wool. I had to laugh as I was totally unprepared...I had a pair of skimpy shorts on and t-shirt. It was so quiet it was unnerving but so peaceful. It was a very eerie feeling to be up here away from all the world, away from everyone. We got to our accommodation and it reminded me of Dolly Hall the only difference being, we had a squat toilet. We got changed in to our arctic clothing, had some supper, bought a hat off one the locals and set the alarm for 3:30am...fully clothed ready for bed and an early start.

It's always hard getting up, but, once you are up its worth it and I was full of anticipation and excitement at watching sunrise over Mount Bromo. The jeep took us over very bumpy ground to Gunung Penanjakan (2770m) we got out and walked for about 40 minutes to the view point. From here you get the best views of sun rise over Bromo, the Tengger crater and towards smoking Semeru, which as I was to find out is spellbinding. At the top we waited for sunrise, due for approximately 5:20am. Everyone is waiting in anticipation, but its so dark you cant see a thing. Slowly more light shines through like some one is slowly opening the blinds...tantalizing you. Then, you get a glimpse, an outline of features, which grows until you begin to make out this desolate, barren, primitive landscape that has a distinctly end of the world feeling. About 6:30 we drove the short journey to the Bromo and walked up 253 steps to it's crater and gazed into the guts of this giant beast, a highly active volcano that last erupted only 6 months ago.

Sunrise and the whole experience of visiting this ancient volcanic range was spellbinding, but words can't always describe or even justify what you want to say. Therefore, I have put a series of pictures in chronological order from around 5am to 7:30am to let the pictures tell the story of one of natures most dramatic and beautiful visions. As they say; 'a picture paints a thousands words'...It was an unforgettable birthday...just don’t ask how old I am.

Sitting on the crater of Bromo

"It is not the mountain we conquer but ourselves"

                                                          

                                                         -Edmund Hilary

 

Four Countries in Seven Days

After New Year we traveled to Krabi Town, rested up for a couple of days and booked our bus out of the country for new pastures further abroad. In less than two weeks we would journey hundreds of miles from Thailand to Indonesia, using every type of transport available to us and feel near exhausted by the end of it. By  the time we got to Jogjakarta on the island of Java, Indonesia, we were in much need of some rest and recuperation. It was during this leg of the journey, that for the first time I really did feel a very long way from home.

We left Thailand on the 5th January by coach destined for the capital of Malaysia...Kuala Lumpur. We arrived there at 3am and went straight to McDonald's for a early breakfast (Why Not?) and waited there until after 6am...this way you don't have to pay for that nights accommodation...top tip. Most travelers refer to the capital as, KL. To Malaysians the city is much more than a capital, it is there monumental achievement, their economic flag ship,  a thriving metropolis, a symbol of their ingenuity and determination. And there is no better  visual example of this here than the massive sky scrapers that dominate the sky line including the record breaking Twin Petronas Towers. They stand at 452 metres tall and are truly breathtaking to behold. The weather was great while we there, and we spent a few days walking around the city, window shopping and eating some lovely Chinese and Indian food. There is so much cultural diversity here, especially the thriving Chinese and Indian community; hustle and bustle, heat and energy, a common theme during the next two weeks of travel through this part of south east Asia's multicultural cauldron of life.

The Petronas Towers

The Twin Towers

Melaka was our next destination in Malaysia. It’s only a short bus journey south to the coast and you arrive at a very different part of the country…artistic and tolerant, diverse and multicultural, small and manageable; it has a stress free vibe that has so much to offer. I prefer this type of place rather than the big cities, it feels more personal and the people are often more friendly. Chinatown is Melaka’s most interesting and scenic area and of a night especially during the weekend it comes alive with music and dance, beautiful lights and colours and has one of the best markets located on Jonker Street. We stayed right in the heart of Chinatown, in a cool little guest house called Jalan Jalan and spent a few days exploring this little gem.
 
 

Notice the distance from Melaka to London

Who's the Daddy? Outside the statue of Malaysia's strongest man

The ambiance at night in beautiful Melaka

Many travelers have said two things to me about Singapore whilst I have been on the road. One it’s very expensive and two the city is that clean you can eat your dinner off the floors. Well I will be honest with you I never saw evidence of the latter; it was a clean city, that is true but nothing special and personally why would anyone in there right mind eat there dinner off the floor. We arrived into the city on the 9^th January and went in search of accommodation. If eating off the floor isn’t true (and again, why would you?) being overly expensive, it well and truly is. One night’s accommodation in Singapore cost the same amount of money as one weeks accommodation in any other of the previous South East Asian countries…and were only talking about basic hostels here in Singapore.  On a positive note the city has a special vibe that is created by the mix of Indian and Chinese heritage intertwined with 21^st century culture, architecture, most notably it's massive skyscrapers, a symbol of business, commerce and economic power. The best way to explore a city in my opinion is the good old fashion way…walking. If I had a pound for every mile I have walked in 2012 I would be a rich man, however the down side is by the end of the day your legs feel like they have done a marathon. But, by walking you don’t miss anything; you can stop and speak to people, try street food and find hidden gems you would otherwise miss if you took another form of transport.  The city comes alive of a night; it transforms into another city, very modern and futuristic in both  rich colour and sound. The skyscrapers dominate, like a man made mountain rage, summits competing with each other, not only in height but with egos in this eccentric economic age. We sat by the dock and gazed at this spectacular sight for ages, watching the city reflect into the calm waters; a very modern age but with a strange primeval ghost still retained in it.

We originally planned to get the boat to Jakarta, Indonesia but after further research we discovered it was not a passenger boat but a cargo liner, it would take 31 hours  to get there and only 2 days before one ship had sunk in the middle of the sea. With that in mind and  with Laura panicking like we about to book onto Titanic 2, we decided to book a cheap flight that would only take 1 hour 30 minutes and would be a hell of a lot safer.

Stunning architecture day and night

Singapore comes a live at night

Sitting on the harbor in awe at this beautiful neon lit skyline

We arrived at Jakarta airport the capital of Indonesia late on the evening of the 12th January. We got a tuck tuck into one of the backpacker areas, booked into a dodgy cheap little room and decided to book on a train out of the city early the next day. Jakarta is a big capital, similar to Mumbia in that its big, populated and polluted. I remember sitting down in this smokey bar late the first night after all that travelling, got a beer and sat back and looking back at me was a picture of The Beatles in their prime, 1964; just when you need a little bit of home comfort, the best band in the world from my home city is shinning down on me...'love you yer yer yer'. We left by train at 6am the next morning to Yogyakarta, and it was during this eight hour journey that for the first time I felt a long way from home. 

The journey was fine, we felt safe as the people here are really friendly, however that doesn't stop you padlocking your rucksack up and fastening it to the overhead rail. But, on this journey I just had this feeling of discovery, like I was another planet for the first time, a feeling that seemed to grow with every mile. Perhaps it was the number of new sensations my receptors where all at once exposed to, bombarded with, forced to make sense of this new and curious world. We where the only foreigners on the train, a great feeling, sometimes a little daunting but a challenge since you have to learn a little of the language...I actually learnt a lot of Indonesian and the people are so appreciative of this, it gets you along way in a foreign land. The train stops every few hours,and when it does a dynamic floating market comes aboard selling everything from exotic foods and coffee to silk scarfs and carpets. Poverty is all around you. People playing out of tune Guitars sing and serenade you, women carrying young infants malnourished and tired looking seek your money, beggars mostly children sweep the floors around you, people from all directions put a solitary hand out and deliver you a piercing dejected look that never fails to pulls at my heart strings. All this energy and commotion and noise. And then the train gently begins to move off and this market of beggars and hawkers disappear like ants leaving you to anticipate the next stop a little more educated in how to avoid eye contact and avoid any unnecessary emotional guilt.

I love the rhythmic movement of the train, its therapeutic...relaxing. The biggest change of the train journey was the landscape. Ancient volcanic mountains, grey and black strike out of the ground like giant broken teeth in the distance set against a mixture of barren and fertile lands.  Small villages and towns pass us by, men and women can be seen working this land...I wonder what there life is like out here in this wilderness? It's rainy season again, so the clouds sang grey and stormy against this back drop. I like to spend some time standing by the door of the train. Its not like England, the trains are primitive here and the doors are open. With the cool air in your face, looking out at this spectacular landscape is an unforgettable experience...free and timeless.

One incident made me laugh on the train. I was making my way back to my seat and there was a few children with their mothers playing, so I said hello and was trying to make them laugh making faces and funny noises as you do. Well they all started crying, one child even ran away from  me screaming. Was it because I was different? Yes...but it was probably more to do with the fact that I was sporting long hair and a big scary beard. Well it made me laugh to think how ironic it was, to think that it was the English children over two hundred year ago who were afraid of the Indonesian people, the so called 'Bugis' people. These warriors had a fierce reputation for being barbaric sea faring wanderers, and it was said that European sailors should beware of the 'Bugis man' during voyages. Maids of families during European colonialistion of the 'spice lands'  told this story to young children in bed time stories to make them behave, hence the saying...'Beware of the Boogie Man'.

What a journey. We arrived in Yogyakarta late in the afternoon and spent 4 days recovering, eating good food, visiting markets and  exploring temples. I even exchanged places with a Tuck Tuck driver just to give him a break from all his hard work on his bicycle. We stayed in a great little place called Utar, a family run guest house who's owner was the secretary of President of Indonesia. We booked  our trip to Gunnung Bromo, a very active Volcano to witness sunrise on the crater at over 3000m above sea level for none other than my birthday; the 16th January...what a present I had in store for myself!!!

Me and the Secretary for the President 

Exchanged places...giving the Tuck Tuck driver a well earned break

Which way mate?

The realisation that I had bitten off more than I could chew

Christmas & New Year Thailand Style

It was time for a change of scenery...I know the following I am about to say, sounds unthinkable, perhaps to some people unforgivable when you consider cold, miserable England, but, we were a little tired of the whole beach culture. We had spent over two weeks on the beaches that belong to the beautiful ko Samui archipelago and It was time for a change of pace, slow it down a bit before the madness of Christmas and New Year. We had already booked our accommodation for Christmas on the island of Ko Phi Phi situated on the west side of Thailand and we were also looking to spend New Year somewhere in the Krabi area. Therefore we decided on a trip to the jungle, in the centre of Thailand as something  completely different. We would spend a week in the jungles of Khao Sok and believe me it fed our appetites again for a little more of creamy sand and crystal blue sea. 

Khao Sok National park in Southern Thailand is an amazing place. It is covered by the oldest evergreen rain forest in the world, huge lime stone mountains shooting straight up in the air, the remains of an ancient coral reef that was five times as big as the Great Barrier Reef. Deep valleys penetrate the landscape, breathtaking lakes and caves are waiting to be explored are vast and remote; wild animals, insects and strange exotic noises creates a feeling of being totally free but at the same time a sense of complete loneliness as though one has stepped back in the wilderness of the Jurassic age. We spent a week in a remote part of the jungle, sleeping in small wooden jungle huts listening to some of the most primal noises of a night and being woken up every morning by troops of monkeys swinging on to the roof. We went on two jungle treks, visited waterfalls and ate beautifully prepared Thai food, my favorite being Bamboo Curry. It was a great experience but I was ready for the beach again after being out in the sticks for five days...I was also in need of a good hot shower.

The view from our jungle hut

Morning in the Jungle 

Taking a well earned rest during one of our jungle treks

We arrived on the island of Koh Phi Phi on the 23rd December and the first thing I done was book on two early morning dives for the following day; Christmas Eve. I usually spend this day stressed out, running around town doing last minute shopping trying to decide what perfume my Mum would like this year. There was nothing better than being on that boat at 7am on Christmas Eve, sun out and a cool sea breeze blowing in my face traveling to one of the best dive sites in the world with the potential to see an abundance of marine life including some reef sharks. We dived two sites just off the famous Ko Phi Phi Lay; this is where the cult  movie 'The Beach' starring Leonardo DiCaprio was filmed. The first dive site was called  Hin Bida, and we dived a coral shelf with a maximum depth of 18m; the highlight  was swimming close to a shy  but curious Leopard Shark, a Blue Spotted Ray and a very inquisitive Hawksbill Turtle.  When you dive, it is probably a similar feeling to being in space; the freedom and weightlessness sensation, a feeling of being in another world...their world. I remember on both dives floating with the currant, and being surrounded by thousands of fish all brightly coloured, tightly packed, the perfect defensive tactic, a massive shoal of fish, individual but all working together like one singular entity, a force that is mesmerising to behold like a muscle contracting and extending effortlessly and poetically, sensitive to every motion in the sea. If you swim to close,  or put your hand out the whole shoal moves together changing its shape, contracting,  but  somehow keeping its order, its shape as though this entity is simply breathing in and out. I could stay there and watch this display of safety in numbers the whole dive, it is simply one of natures beautifully engrossing sites. My final dive was on a site called Bida Nok with a depth of around 20m.  We spent 40 minutes searching for the shy and elusive Black Tip Reef Shark.  Near the end  of our dive, our dive master took us to coral wall and we dived to about 16m and waited at a particularity good feeding ground for one last chance of a sighting. With only 60 bar of air left, and time running out, there it was, out of the blue the greatest hunting machine the world has known; skills homed and refined over millions of years of evolution prowling past me like poetry in motion; slick, graceful, elegant. I was in awe, in front of me swimming was the ultimate predator...the Shark and within in seconds... it was gone. What an unforgettable encounter.

Christmas is not the same when you are abroad in my opinion, there is nothing like being at home with all your family eating your Turkey and Stuffing. It did not feel like Christmas this year but it was still a lot of fun. This year I had a BBQ all you can eat for dinner, which was a change. Boxing day on Phi Phi was a quiet and somber occasion. All excursions, dive and water sports were cancelled as a sign of respect for the hundreds of people who lost there lives in the 2004 Tsunami disaster. It was the seven year anniversary of when the Tsunami destroyed this island and you can still evidence of the disaster.  We walked up to the view point to remember the victims and to pay our respects. The tourist part of Phi Phi were the majority of hotels and restaurants are situated lies on a thin stretch of land. This is were the waves hit hardest; it really drives home the reality of just how vulnerable the victims were seven years ago.  

Happy Christmas

Koh Phi Phi

A poignant view of Phi on the anniversary of the 2004 Tsunami

You can notice Phi Phi Lay just under my chin where the cult movie 'The Beach' was filmed

Railay is one of Thailand's most sought after beach areas, a rocky headland and accessible only by boat, presents itself as a tranquil and extraordinary little world. In just one small peninsula you'll find gorgeous white sand beaches, soaring limestone cliffs, viewpoints, caves and lagoons hidden inside the cliffs, shaped and fed by the changing tides.  What a place to bring in the New Year. The vibe here is layed back and chilled out, with reggae music drifting harmoniously across the beach, basking in sun shine watching climbers from all over the world scale irresistible and very challenging cliffs and crags. However, we almost had to leave before we even settled in. 

We arrived on the peninsula late in the afternoon of the 28th December and decided not to book anywhere, as we have found from experience that it's usually cheaper to find a place when you arrive at your destination. Within minutes of arriving by long boat, however, we quickly realised that the entire place was fully booked out. With night fall fast approaching, me and Laura laid en with heavy rucksacks and wary from travelling all day were faced with the reality of sleeping on the beach, or if we are lucky in a bar somewhere. We walked the entire island for over two hours and everywhere was full. My heart sank. The closet place to go from here was by boat  and it was over an hour a way and we would defiantly be ripped off. In our hour of need and with the last throw of the dice I sat our bags down and ran up 'last chance saloon' jungle road, a stretch of beating track that leads up into the mountains. By now it was dark, I was tired and I new if I can't manage to convince someone to put us up for the night we were defiantly sleeping on a strip of sand somewhere. I called into three small guest houses, full, no vacancies. I then arrived at the last guest house up on the hill and pleaded with the guy 'We'll sleep anywhere'. The guy looked at me and told me that he did have one room, but it had no door, 'do you want a look'? I ran up with a joyful heart. He was right about the door, but it also had no windows, no bed no nothing, just a bear room with a ripped mosquito net and dirty mattress. But, beggars can't be choosers, and in a situation like this it looked more to me like the 'Hilton' to me. I think my words were  in a high voice 'we'll take it'!!!.

The Hilton

The motto of Rilay is a simple but effective way of making decisions quickly without thought or responsibility of any direct or indirect consequence that may follow due to your answer. Let me try to explain using the following questions. Do you want to climb tomorrow? Why not? Do you want to sunbathe? Why not? Shall we go swimming later? Why not? Do you want a ice cold beer? Why Not? Do you want to play the next song on the bass? Why not? Did you order a large pinnacallada?...its half seven in the morning I am not an alcoholic...Why not? I think you get the general gist. This simple quick witted two letter word is the answer to almost all questions on this liberal little island. It provides a platform for a no nonsense, no thought involved, uncompromising gut approach without a second thought for consequence or responsibility. Great!!! It's the decision making process the Tories having been using for years in England to discuss, manage and implement government policy on a number of greatly pressing issues. Imagine the setting; David Cameron addressing his cabinet including the one and only Nick Clegg. The issue  for discussion is on  debt reduction in the UK. David Cameron; "Shall we cut and slash Government spending to an all time low, and rip apart the entire social fabric of society in the process?" Cabinet with an indifferent glare and a shake of the heads...Why Not?

I usually think New Year is a big let down, and anti climax to the festive period, but, this year was different. I spent the night on the beach, watching fire work displays, mixing with people from all around the world and listening to the best upbeat positive genres of music...Reggae. The highlight was getting up with one of the local Rasta bands and jamming on the bass some legendary Bob Marley songs. I then had the pleasure to watch one of the best Reggae bands in Thailand bring the New Year in, and stand in awe listening to the funkiest soul-iest  bass player I have ever had the pleasure and honor to behold...he made the bass sing. What an end to a great year...roll on 2012.

Rilay Beach

Jammin', I wanna Jam it wid you!!!

Bringing in the New Year

The man. The best bass player I have ever seen; the man is soul

Happy New Year 2012

'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery
None but ourselves can free our minds'

                         -Bob Marley

Welcome to the Koh Samui Archipelago

'Someones gotta live the dream'

Is it really fair?There are over 200 countries around the globe and Thailand has managed to snag a disproportionate amount of the world's top beaches. I don't care really as I am here, its more of a question of which beach to go to. There is enough stretches of creamy beaches and honey tinged paradises to give even good old Goldilocks a complex. The Sumui Islands make up Thailand's lower southern gulf and consist of three main Islands; Ko Samui, Ko Phangan and Ko Tao. I visited all three in this order and had the time of my life. 

I hobbled with a badly infected broken toe to our beach shack, tired, and still raging at being the victim of a Thai robbery. We dropped our bags off and went straight to the hospital. I was in agony now and the infection was getting worse. The nail was barely hanging on due the bad swelling and yellow stinking puss that was now engulfing my entire big toe. In a tropical country like Thailand you need to get an infection treated quickly. We got a taxi to the hospital, and got ripped off, later realising that we had paid three times the rate. We then got to the hospital, and I was taken straight into mini surgery. I filled out a few forms and then lied down as the nurse prepared all the tools for the job. Just when you think it cant get any worse, well...it gets even worse. The doctor walks in and takes a look at me. Before he removes the nail and squeezes out the puss  he tells me that it will cost a tidy 200 pound. I look a him in disbelief and tell him I need to go the bank. He replyed with a smile 'don't worry sir, we have one right over there' and points towards the ward. Low and behold, there is a ATM cash machine in the hospital looking at me as if I am sitting in the townie. How funny is that? A money making business and making a fortune out of us foreigners, who fill the hospital with injuries mostly from moped accidents all plodding about like the walking dead. Well to top it off, after I pay, I sat down and the doctor pulled out a needle as big as a pencil and said this wont hurt a bit and sticks into my big toe. So, as you can appreciate, I was not in the best of moods with the Thais after this escapade. 

When I got back to our beach shack, I sat down, the sun was shinning bright and the sea was lapping up against the beach and I thought, it's not all bad, there are worse place to be. I am sitting on a little piece of paradise chilling out. From now on the only way was up. We spent a week on the island relaxing and eating. Each day I would go to the local pharmacy and see my friend 'Bong' who helped me clean my toe each day and re-bandage it. He was great and even better he was a big Liverpool fan. Me and Laura spent one night watching some world famous Muay Thai boxing. It was like being on the set of kick-boxer without Tong Po. The atmosphere was electric, crazy, bloodthirsty. It was basically a small blood stained ring surrounded by loads of bars and locals all cheering their fighters on, betting and baying for blood. What an experience. 

Our Ko Samui Beach Hut

Not a bad place to nurse a broken toe

Me and Bong who was a big Liverpool fan

Our little mate in the local internet cafe

Food the traditional way-beautiful Thai BBQ

'I want Tong Po'  At the Muay Thai boxing

Ko Phangan sits in the middle of Ko Samui and Ko Tao and is home to the world famous Full Moon Party. It is in the top five list of parties in the world to go to and attracts an outrageous 30,000 partiers to one strip of lunar lit beach filled with thumping DJ beats. The 10th of December was the date for this months legendary Party and lets face it, we had planned our entire Thailand trip around it. 

We arrived on the island on the 7th December and stayed right in the heart of the party capital. The vibe here is amazing as people from all over the world have came here to have a good old jolly time. The main beach is called Hat Rin and of a day people sun bath, play football, volleyball, swim or just laze about in the sun and chill out listening to the music that booms out onto the beach. It's a cool place. Of a night the beach is transformed into neon lit, fire dancing light show of energy with thousands of people painted from head to toe with fluorescent paints and wearing various luminous cloths and paraphernalia, bumping, grinding and sweating their way through one of greatest nights until sunrise.  

On Ko phangan, they will use any excuse to a party; half-moon, quarter moon, crescent moon, black moon, no moon...they don't care, its just party time all the time. For me the lead up to the full moon party, the so called 'pre-full moon' parties are the best. We met up with friends from Bangkok, 'Trey' a Folk singer from New Orleans who is an artist recording his own music and playing all around the world. I as lucky enough to chill out with him and have a jam session playing a lot of Bob Dylan inspired songs. We met so many more people like our Dutch friend Frans-Willem who was traveling around south east Asia after competing in a the Thailand Triathlon and finished in the top 40. Great achievement. It was also during one one these parties were fate would play it's hand and lead us to a meeting with some amazing people. In the early hours of the morning whilst throwing the shapes out on the beach during one of the 'pre-full moon' parties, I looked down and saw something flashing. There was a fire show going on at the time and the lights were flashing around me like a giant kaleidoscope of rich colour. It took some time to register. was I dreaming? As I focused on it, there it was, half buried in the sand, an iPhone 4,  the very same beloved model I had to reluctantly leave behind. I picked it up in wonder and saw a picture of bearded man the image of Jim Morrison staring back at me...now I really was dreaming. I gave the iPhone to Laura and decided to try and contact him tomorrow. The next day I met up with Ronnie and Karlie (our friends from Kirkby who we had met up with again) and showed them the picture of the this guy. He looked and with a surprised reaction  told me that that this guy was staying in the next beach shack to them...what are the odds of that? On the way to their shack I spotted these two guys walking towards us, both looked as if they had just been plucked from the 1969 Woodstock festival. I instantly recognised him and asked him if he was missing an iPhone. His reaction said it all, he had been looking for it all day. When I gave him it back, he was overjoyed and well, we all went and celebrated and the rest is history. Their names were Damon and Kyle, both from the USA who work in the shipping industry in Alaska. They were chilled out people, with a great sense of humour and behaved like time was always on their side. It was infectious. They are just good people who are just easy to get to know and have that easy way about them that makes them likeable to everyone. Good times!!!

All the crew celebrating (Kyle on the left and Damon aka Morrison) shortly after returning the iPhone 4

Me and Frans

Jamming

Tray from New Orleans playing some Bob Dylan inspired Folk music
 

Hat Rin Beach

The calm before the storm that was the Full Moon Party

Strict dress code applies for the Full Moon Party

Fire show during the Full Moon Party

Little Ko Tao was our next destination...perched on a ledge of coral reefs, it has earned world wide fame as a diving and snorkeling mecca. The water has high visibility, there are abundant coral formations and diverse marine life and diving certification is one of the cheapest in the world. I was supposed to go here first but chance would have it I ended my journey around the Samui island here in beautiful Ko Tao.


There are so many dive centres here that you are spoiled for choice. As I was walking around the place I bumped into my American friend Kyle from Ko phangan. He wasn't there to dive but after speaking to him for a while and telling him all about it he decided to extend his stay and join me on the 4 day Open Water Course. This was to be one of the best experiences of my entire journey around the world so far. We singed up and met a an English guy named Steve who was from Portsmouth but supported Manchester United...why? However, he was a great guy and for the next 4 days we were the scuba team along with our French Dive Master Serg. The course consists of some interesting theory, confined water skills and principles finishing with 4 open water dives off Ko Tao putting all your skills together in the open sea. The first time you go under water, is quite strange, you inhale, the air comes with a reassuring hiss and within moments the bulky gear you had on aboard the boat transforms; you become light, agile and free, a feeling of weightless. Its a feeling that delivers both adrenalin and intensity, serenity and peace. You explore a world that only a few select people will ever see, It's an unknown world, one that has an abundant variety of marine life and you dive with growing anticipation and excitment of what strange creature you will encounter next. It's one of the most tranquil environments I have ever experienced, and now am hooked, I love it. I have since dived in the Andaman sea on the west of Thailand and have plans to dive on the eat of Indonesia. 

Me and Kyle learning the skills and principles on the confined water dive

Buddying up

The team:Kyle, Me, Steve and Serg

Ok: getting ready to dive

Last dive so we all somersault in

Ready to descend on our last dive

Me and Steve with our PADI Certificate 

Chilling on the beach in Ko Tao

The three weeks we spent traveling across the Samui Archipelago was some of the best times of my life; a roller-coaster ride of experiences. You meet so many people from around the world on the journey and you learn so much about life and about yourself. This is one of the the best parts of traveling. Most people you will never meet again but, for that single moment in time everything is all good. It has a positive impact on your life no matter how brief your encounter. On our last night I was sitting on the beach in Ko Tao with all our friends, it was a beautiful night. The sound of someone playing the guitar could be heard in the distance and in front of us there was a fire show lighting the sky up. People were laying about on the beach without a care in the world. I layed back, soaking it all in, catching Damon's eye as I did so. He lent over and whispered in my ear in his soft Western American voice that just summed it all up for me; "man...someones gotta live the dream"