Travelling Adventure

Saturday, 21 April 2012

Perth to Melbourne (Part 2)....

'The vastness engulfs us all'

Tuesday 21st February:

We woke up early with the sun shinning through onto the train tracks and the flies swarming fiercely around our face...it was going to be another hot day today. The next leg of our road trip was to travel across the remote Nullarbor plain travelling along the Eyre highway; a stretch of road 2700km long spanning all the way to Norseman from Kalgoorlie in Western Australia to Ceduna in South Australia. The nullarbor Plain is a region of so many contrasting geographical features, unspoilt landscapes, breathtaking ocean views and diverse Australian wildlife. The land is one of extremes, but, this is the way to travel. To feel the remoteness of this unremittingly harsh desert is exciting and a feeling of freedom. It really hits you when you are driving for hours on end without seeing another car or truck and when you do you give them a friendly little wave to let them know their not alone. It felt like we were driving for hours on end covering great distances but getting nowhere; the roads just disappear beautifully into the sky like a mirage on the distant sun baked horizon.

It was reaching about 40 degrees as we passed through the small town of Ballodonia, 193km east of Noresman. There were warning signs along the way indicating the risk of bushfire as severe. We stopped off at a petrol station to fill up and I noticed the remains of a satellite on the roof. It turned out to be the remains of a 78 tonne NASA space station that crashed here in 1979. NASA said that they would give $1,000 for every piece of satellite found and sent back to the USA. This sparked a frenzy with thousands of people converging on to this part of Western Australia's outback taking part in a mass search that lasted over 2 weeks putting this small town on the international front pages. I found it funny to find that the Shire of Esperance slapped the US Government with a $400 fine for littering...Quality touch. It was my turn to drive when unbeknown to me I found myself driving on the longest straight road in Australia, a massive 146.6km better known as the the 90 mile straight. I put the car on to cruise control sat back not even having to steer the whole way...it was hard to stay awake believe me. Dotted along the highway are signs that read 'Emergency Airstrip'...that's how big and straight this road is. Along the way on this arid desert we saw a lone Emu foraging about in the shrubs and up in the sky a couple of eagles soaring high with that graceful beauty that they possess. The wildlife is amazing. We stopped off at a little town called Cocklebiddy for lunch and outside was a sign that read 'population 8 + 1 dog'. These folk are little strange too...the best way I can describe it is....'League of Gengleman' sketch "Are you local"?-enough said. After a long drive we came across the town of Madura, 83km east of Cocklebiddy. We set up camp and had a well deserved beer. We were exactly halfway between Perth and Adelaide.

The start of the remote Nullarbor

The road disappears beautifully into the sky

The straightest road in Australia-better known as the 90 mile straight

Part of the 1979 space station that fell on WA

I managed to snap a photo of a wild Emu

The graceful flight of the Eagle soaring high over the nullarbor

The barren landscape of the Nullarbor

A great shot of the vast nullarbor at a high viewpoint

Just before heading into the town of Madura

Wednesday 22nd February:

We woke early with the sun shining through our tent it was going to be another great day on the road again. I remember getting into the car and as we drove off the song; 'Sombody I Used to Know' by Gotye came on...this was to become our road trip song. The landscape was slowly changing now the further east we travelled. We were leaving the flat red arid outback behind for more greenery with lots of small windswept blue bush shrubby and small tress. Ancient mountains and the ocean could be seen in the distance as the road veered closer to the coast, but, the sheer vastness and nakedness remained the same. We passed through Eucla just before we crossed the South Australian boarder scoffing all our fruit first as strict quarantine restrictions when crossing the boarder apply. As the road veered towards the coast of South Australia we were greeted by the majestic cliffs soaring high over the Great Australian Bight. This coastal drive was simply stunning. We stopped off along the way to take in the beauty. This is prime real estate...to think that I am not the first person to observe such natural beauty; aboriginals have came to these spots for thousands of years to look out in wonder. Sitting on one of the biggest slabs of limestone in Australia looking out over the ocean in total calm and peace, thousands of miles from anywhere and from anyone, only us three in this remote country was special. I looked out over the ocean and to my amazement I spotted a dolphin swimming in the current enjoying the simple tranquillity of solitude unaware of me watching him. It was so good we decided to camp next to the soaring cliffs, the best camp spot one can imagine. We had our tea and watched the best sun set- all mesmerised as this big orange ball disappeared into the ocean. As the day turned to night the stars came out to bless us with their beauty and you cant help but star gaze looking for a chance glimpse of a shooting star. To think that the nearest star is 100,000 light years away from us and the light travels 300,000 km/s...mind blowing.

Sign post at Eucla...we had traveled 1435km in 4 days

First look at the ocean

Over looking the Great Australian Bight

To think the Great white shark's hunting ground is behind me

The deep blue colour of the sea is beautiful

In need of a hair cut

The foot of these majestic cliffs where I saw a dolphin swimming in the current

On the edge of these 100m cliffs

lost in thought and contemplation

The Subaru on the edge of the cliffs

The air is so fresh up on the edge of these soaring cliffs

Windswept on the cliffs

An aesthetic voyagers dream...stunning scenery

The best campsite of my life...

Sunset

Taking this surreal sunset in

Thursday 23rd:

We woke up early and was greeted by the spectacular sight of the cliffs again...I could stare out to sea forever; to think that there is nothing but open ocean until you reach Antarctica. This is the driest state of the driest continent, wild and untamed. Surrounded by small shrubs there is a real chance of disturbing a snake here, and remember 18 of the deadliest snakes in the world are right here on our campsite. As we were packing up we watched a car slowly approach. It was the ranger and he told us that we shouldn't be camping here. He said there was a real danger of parts of the cliff collapsing into the sea. With a slap on the wrist we headed off further east. I was aware of passing a number of what I assumed were golf courses since Norseman. It was only when we stopped off at Cocklebiddy a couple of days ago did I realise what it was...it was a very unique 18-hole par 72 course indeed- it was only the longest golf course in the world. The course from hole 1 to 18 spans a whopping 1,365km with one hole in each participating town along the Eyre highway. I wanted to play a least one hole to say I had done it. So we stopped off at Penong, hole 16, a par 4. It was another baking hot day. We hired some dodgy clubs out and played a practise hole in which I hit a 6. We walked back and played it again. I was determined to par it. After a great tea shot and a good second near the green I pitched on 5 ft away from the hole for a par put. I thought yes I am going to par a hole on the longest course in the world. I read the green, looked at all possible angles, took a number of practise puts then putted with a tentative swing. I watched the ball role in slow motion...it was going to go in. But then the ball deviated to the left, rolled around the cup and lipped out....NO!!!! I was gutted, but, what a unexpected laugh and it was the first time Laura or Nader had played on a real golf course...and what a first course to play on- only the longest in the world. We passed thought the town of Ceduna, which is 480km from the Western Australian boarder. We had planned to stay at the famous Cactus Beach but decided on making time up and heading towards a more secluded beach at Streaky Bay. We arrived there just before sunset and was greeted to more spectacular scenery. This time rather that camping on the cliffs we camped on the beach. Surrounded by sand dunes and about 20 meters away from the sea this was another unreal campsite, and to top it off we were greeted by yet another surreal sun set. By now it was very dark when we sat down for tea. It was going so well until I shone the torch onto the beach to be greeted by the sight of thousands of black beetles. Laura freaked out. We got it together based on the fact that they are absolutely harmless. Then, as we settled down again I caught something in the corner of my eye. Shinning the touch I saw right next to my foot not 1 but 4 big Scorpions. We all jumped onto the chairs, now Laura really freaked out...to be honest I did a little. When we got into the tent the noise of all these insects joined by a couple of mice all running around the fly sheet was a little unnerving. But, none was more unnerving that waking up in the middle of the night and right next to my face on the out side of the inner fly sheet the silhouette of big Scorpion. It was the end to a eventful day on the road.

Hole 16 on the longest course in the world

All them hours playing with the school on a Wednesday paying off with a cracking tee shot

A Dennis Wise...Missing a nasty 5ft par putt

Campsite on the beach at Streaky Bay

Simply stunning

View from the front of our tent at sunset

My favourite picture...notice the planets Mars and Jupiter in the twilight sky

Friday 24th:

I woke up with the sound of the tide coming in and was greeted by a beautiful fresh morning on the beach. We went into town for breakfast. I checked my emails and found out that one of my best friends had asked me to be the Godfather of his new baby girl...great stuff. We planned to travel up north to the Flinders National Park before heading to Adelaide were we had planned to stay with a family we had met way back in October in Vietnam. We passed through Port Augusta and picked up some food and more importantly a few beers. After a couple of hours of driving the procession of glowing red mountains of the Flinders NP, folded and crumpled with age came slowly into focus. It is so hot and dry here, so wild and vast that there must be few areas on this planet that feel quite so isolated or hostile to human habitation. Disused and desolate 19th century farm houses that dot the landscape like ghosts from another age serve only to reinforce this fact. The only Kangaroos I had seen since we had left Perth were dead ones on the side of the road, victims of road kill; now as we entered the NP we were treated to the sight of hundreds...this was well and truly Kangaroo country.

Saturday 25th

This week I had been treated to some spectacular mornings and when it can't get any better it just does. As the sun was coming up I looked out of my tent to see two Kangaroos only 2ft away foraging about...I just sat there thinking you just can't beat this. We explored the NP and visited a cave with some interesting Aboriginal paintings that were thousands of years old. We left in the afternoon for one more big drive to Adelaide, were we could rest before driving to our final destination, Melbourne via the 'Great Ocean Road'. When we arrived in Adelaide we had drove the equivalent distance of Liverpool to Moscow...It was time to take a big breath.

The Flinders NP coming into focus

Two kangaroos greeting me a morning hello

Can you see the little inquisitive rock Wallaby-he watched us all the way on our walk to the cave

Aboriginal cave paintings that date back over a thousands years old

Outside one of the caves in the Flinders NP

The glowing red mountains of Flinders can be seen on the horizon

In familiar pose...In-front of the Flinders ancient red mountain range

This became our travel song... have a listen while you look at the pictures...enjoy!!!

Tuesday, 3 April 2012

An Unforgettable Road Trip...Perth to Melbourne (Part 1)

The following blog is a reflection of our unforgettable journey across the remoteness of Australia's outback, an incredible 11 day's on the road, an adventure that is as epic as the vastness of this ancient country and as diverse as it's ever changing landscape and wildlife. Our aim was to travel over 5000km from Perth all the way to Melbourne in a Subaru 4x4...the equvilant of walking about 52 days none stop 24 hours a day without rest or sleep. It was all about the journey, without any time restraints or set plans; it was just us on the raod taking each day as it came...total freedom. It was an epic journey, so I am going to split the blog into 3 parts. We traveled with a guy named Nader who we met on 'Gumtree'; originaly from Melbourne and heading home, he turned out to be the best guide of Australia you could possibly imagine and by the end of our trip a true friend. We set off on the morning of Saturday 18th February. Myself, Laura, Nader and good old Susie Subaru were fully prepared with our tents and camping equipment for an adventure of a life time...one of the best 11 day's of my life.

"Ultimate freedom... An extremist... An aesthetic voyager whose home is the road"

-Chris Mcandless

Saturday 18th February: The First Night in the Outback

It was sad to leave John & Susie, we had some good times, but leaving is something we have got used to in the last 6 months; I see travelling as a series of mini chapters, chance encounters, fleeting glimpses and new experiences... it's something Chris Mcandless say's is the core of a man's living spirit. We headed east for great Gold Mining town of Kalgoorlie. This is a more unusual direction to take, as most people prefer to travel south to Albany and take the more scenic coastal route east to the Nullarbor plain and then on into south Australia. However, Nader was very keen to explore Kalgoorlie, the great gold mining town for possible job opportunity in the future. Nader is one of the most interesting people I have ever met, he is just full of knowledge on so many different subjects especially science and geology. He had a PhD in Physics for a start and had spent the last few months in Western Australia exploring possible job opportunities, looking for innovative way’s he could use his skills in fibre optics to benefit Geological science in Australia’s thriving mining industry. I have never looked at so many rocks in all my life. Well spoken and hugely informative without an once of arrogance, we were travelling with the best tour guide in the world and it was free.

We finally got on the road but made little head way before it started to get dark and so we decided to camp at a place called ‘Boondi Park’. We didn't want to travel during the night to avoid hitting any of Australia's nocturnal wildlife most notably the famous Kangaroo. The landscape of the western outback is as red as Mars and as dry and arid as a desert. As we set our tents up I watched the armies of ants roam the red surface of this desolent land, seen a snake trail disappear into the shrubs and later that night gazed at a red back spider in the toilet...it was just a reminder that out here the wildlife is very dangerous. One moment during the first night will stay with me forever. I got up in the middle of the night to go the toilet, and I remember looking up and being mesmerised by the spectacular sight of the stars. I have never seen anything like it before. There was no light pollution, no sound, just me looking up at The ‘Milky Way’ in the middle of the outback hypnotised by them dazzling lights of history. That striking strip of cosmos in the southern hemisphere felt so close I just looked up in wonder for ages at the sight of billions of stars. Then a shooting star raced across the sky burning up in the atmosphere...for the first time I think I understood why the Ancient Egyptians had such a Godly affinity with the night sky and the constellations...simply beautiful.

Sunday 19th February: The Super Pit of Kalgoorlie:

600km east of Perth at the end of the Great Eastern Highway lies the eastern gold fields of Kalgoorlie-Boulder. In 1893 an Irish man named Paddy Hannan stumbled on gold here generating a massive gold boom town. To this day the pit now called the 'The Super Pit' producing up to 850,000 ounces of gold every year and its operation far outweighs any other mining centre in Australia. The Super Pit is the biggest gold open pit mine in the country. Luckily we managed to get tickets for a free tour of the massive pit and had an informative day. It is huge, but, by 2021 all mining may have to stop due to the massive mine ever encroaching on the town of Kalgoorlie. There is still so much gold in the mine, however it is becoming harder to extract as the mine gets deeper. This is were Nader comes in. He has seen a possible opportunity to use his skills inventively to support exploration geologists to determine were gold may be found in the future. The whole town is built on money so it will be interesting to see how the town would cope with the loss of such an integral part of their economy. One interesting fact I found out about the pit was the amount of women employed as truck drivers. Over 70% of truck drivers who work in the pit are women, in charge of carrying millions of dollars of gold in trucks worth over 4 million dollars each. Men can't be trusted it seems, and here at least the female species is seen as the more effective driver. I say equal rights.

We camped in the shadow of the Super Pit that night, the glow of the lights in the distance made for an eerie atmosphere. The landscape here is dark red and super dry with many shrubs and gum trees and the flies are fierce attacking your face unremittingly after any moisture they can find. Its only when it gets dark do you get any respite. During the night our entertainment was to star gaze talking about what could be possibly out there, the talk is one of wonder and amazement at the infinite possibilities the universe possesses. Nader had an 'App' on his Ipod which when you pointed it at the night sky it would map out all the planets, constellations and even satelights. It's true there really is an 'App' for everything. This is what we done every night, gaze into the night abyss and wonder as we followed the the planets orbit. This night we spotted the 'Southern Cross' constellation which is very significant to all Australians since the stars make up the National flag...we found it in the night sky every night.

Monday 20th February:

In the morning we took part in a little 'gold prospecting' ourselves outside our tents and what better inspiration than in the shadow of the super pit; the richest square mile in Australia and possibly the world. However, like many would would be millionaires during the gold rush the luck certainly wasn't with us... the only things I found were a couple of dirty pebbles and brown cortez rocks. Me and Laura visited the town and the museum in Kalgoorlie as Nader went on another visit of the super pit. The museum tells the story of much more than the physical procedure of mining for gold, it tells us about the history and scale of mans sheer obsessions for the sacred mental and the lasting result of that ambition...the super pit and the town. On show was a nugget of gold worth around $6,000, and me being a cheeky scouser asked if I could hold it...I was surprised how dense it was, shinny in appearance but strangely attractive. I can see why man is obsessed with this precious mental, it had captivating grasp. After spending the day roaming around the town in the sweltering heat we drove off in search of a campsite and we found a secluded little jem right next to a railway line in the remote outback. During the night as we were having some tea we saw some lights in the far distance on the horizon, but the lights and that familiar rhythmic sound was getting closer and closer. It took us some time to comprehend what it was until it was right on top of us; a massive cargo train chugging past. What a sight and it was literally 20 metres from us in the middle of the outback. He must have seen us as he blow his horn...I felt like I was in a scene from 'Stand by Me'. The next morning we go up bright and early, it was a bright beautiful cloudless day. We had some breakfast, got attacked by some flies and then we set off on the Eyre Highway into the remoteness of the Nullabor plain.